Tantalising Tourmalines: Looking Back at the October Birthstone

October 27, 2023

By Livia Primo Lack

9 min read

As October draws to a close, it’s time to look back at the most beautiful tourmaline creations by some of our favourite designers. Let’s learn more about this multicoloured gemstone and discover why these talented jewellers love working with it via the medium of their most tantalizing tourmaline designs.

Very few gems match the vast colour range of the tourmaline. Available in every hue of the rainbow, from rich reds to light violets, this gem’s colour intensity makes it such a special stone. Discovered in Brazil in the 1500s, tourmaline was often mistaken for other precious gems. Green tourmalines were thought to be the sought-after emerald until the 1800s when scientists could chemically differentiate between the two distinct minerals. Red tourmalines, known as rubellites, were also famously mistaken for rubies, especially in royal jewels. A 255.75-carat gem known as the Caesar’s Ruby was a valued treasure in the Russian royal family and was traded amongst the royalty of France, Russia and Sweden from the late 16th century. However, in 1922, mineralogist Aleksandr Evgenevich Fersman reported its true identity as a rubellite.

Katerina Perez with Assael pearl and tourmaline earrings

Katerina Perez with Assael pearl and tourmaline earrings

 Katerina Perez with Assael pearl and tourmaline rings

Katerina Perez with Assael pearl and tourmaline rings

Secondary to opal in the October birthstone hierarchy, the name ‘tourmaline’ comes from the Sinhalese word ‘toramalli’, which means ‘stones of mixed colours’, because they were hard to identify. Much like their wide variety of hues, tourmalines are said to inspire different positive attributes for those who wear them. They can ignite artistic inspiration, provide self-confidence, and boost determination depending on the wearer. It is for these reasons and many more that the talented designers below choose to work regularly with this special and versatile gem. Here are a few words from industry insiders on why they’re smitten with tourmalines for their creations.

Constantin Wild AI Tourmaline artwork

Constantin Wild AI Tourmaline artwork

Carol Kauffman

Tourmalines have more than 200 shades and represent the diversity of colours found in Brazilian nature. It’s a gemstone that always inspires me because, in addition to its natural beauty, it conveys the soul of our wonderful flora, inspiring me to create the “Secret Gardens” collection.

Elizabeth Gage, MBE

For me, colour in jewellery is synonymous with timelessness. I choose to work with tourmalines for their unique colours that give each of my creations an inimitable and statement quality.

Model wearing Elizabeth Gage rings and earrings in gold and tourmaline

Model wearing Elizabeth Gage rings and earrings in gold and tourmaline

 Elizabeth Gage ring gold and tourmaline

Elizabeth Gage ring gold and tourmaline

 Elizabeth Gage ring in gold, sapphire and tourmaline

Elizabeth Gage ring in gold, sapphire and tourmaline

Sunita Nahata

Tourmalines are an exotic family of gems and come in various shades from different parts of the world. The brilliance and hardness of the tourmaline are high, making it extremely resistant to scratches in day-to-day wear. They are my favourite gems, as I like to play with colour in my designs. Every shade of tourmaline is unique, beautiful and precious.

Model wearing Sunita Nahata rings in white gold and Paraiba tourmaline

Model wearing Sunita Nahata rings in white gold and Paraiba tourmaline

Vanessa Chilton (Robinson Pelham)

Tourmalines have always been a favourite gem of Robinson Pelham. It’s their extensive colour palette, which makes them wonderful to work with, and that’s essential for jewellers who love colour as much as we do.

Model wearing Robinson Pelham Arena rings in gold and tourmaline

Model wearing Robinson Pelham Arena rings in gold and tourmaline

 Robinson Pelham Elixir pendant in gold and Paraiba tourmaline

Robinson Pelham Elixir pendant in gold and Paraiba tourmaline

 Robinson Pelham spider pendant in gold, precious gemstones and tourmaline

Robinson Pelham spider pendant in gold, precious gemstones and tourmaline

 Robinson Pelham Arena ring in gold, sapphire and tourmaline

Robinson Pelham Arena ring in gold, sapphire and tourmaline

Finally, here are a few words from Katerina Perez on why she loves the tourmaline gem: “I love tourmalines for the rich colour palette they offer, with some hues being so exclusive that they have their names like indicolite, rubellite or Paraiba. For those who like to have something truly eye-catching, there are bi-colour and watermelon tourmalines. What makes this stone particularly desirable among collectors are the rare and valuable varieties within the tourmaline group like neon blue Paraibas”.

Alice Fournier Yukon ring in white gold, diamond and Paraiba tourmaline

Alice Fournier Yukon ring in white gold, diamond and Paraiba tourmaline

No matter what shade you love or the jewel you’re dreaming of, tourmaline is an essential mineral ingredient in the fine jewellery recipe. For those born in October, it is an uplifting accompaniment to the play of colour in opals and will help showcase your vibrant personality.

Collins and Sons

Collins and Sons

Ring in rose gold, platinum, featuring a 19-ct pink tourmaline

Ines Nieto

Ines Nieto

Necklace in gold, pearl and tourmaline

Annoushka

Annoushka

Ring in white gold, sapphire, diamond and tourmaline

Noora Shawqi

Noora Shawqi

Ring in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

CICADA

CICADA

Necklace in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

DEVI Jewels

DEVI Jewels

Ring in white gold, diamond and carved tourmaline

Jacquie Aiche

Jacquie Aiche

Sophia Dia Inside Out hoop earrings in gold and tourmaline

TASAKI

TASAKI

Flourish necklace in Akoya pearl, morganite, sapphire, spinel, topaz, diamond and tourmaline

Le Vian

Le Vian

Ring in white gold, diamond and tourmaliine

La Marquise

La Marquise

Pendant in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

Bucherer Fine Jewellery

Bucherer Fine Jewellery

Earrings in gold, diamond and tourmaline

Kaltham's Pavilion

Kaltham's Pavilion

Ring in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

ASSAEL

ASSAEL

Earrings in gold, pearl and tourmaline

Alice Fournier

Alice Fournier

Ring in white gold, diamond and Paraiba tourmaline

Assael

Assael

Earrings in white gold, pearl and tourmaline

Hamilton Jewelers

Hamilton Jewelers

Ring in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

Picchiotti

Picchiotti

Ring in gold, white gold, diamond and tourmaline

Neha Dani

Neha Dani

Agapi bracelet in gold, enamel, precious gemstones and Paraiba tourmaline

Schlumberger Reimagined: Bird on a Rock is Back at Tiffany & Co.

continue reading

Watches and Wonders 2025: Eight of the Most Artful Dials 

From lovers kissing on a bridge to precious animals painted in enamel or gems, this year’s watch launches included timepieces with extraordinary dials that blur the line between watchmaking and wearable art.

by Rachael Taylor

Birthday Wishes: Embracing the Power of Being Different 

Today, I want to share my thoughts on embracing your inner self and channelling all that power into your biggest passions…

by Katerina Perez

Flip the Script: Meet the Jewellers Creating Luxury Customised Watches

Jewellery designers are increasingly turning their artistic talents to the world of horology, customising luxury watches with unique embellishments that carry their personal style signatures. From reimagined Rolexes to gemstone-studded bezels, discover how jewellers are making their mark on the world of timepieces

by Rachael Taylor

Iconic Revival: Boucheron Reinvents the Serpent Bohème Jewellery

That nostalgic feeling of seeing past creations—sometimes forgotten, sometimes iconic—sparking a rush of inspiration to reimagine and breathe new life into what once was. That's exactly what Boucheron has achieved with its latest revival: the Serpent Bohème Vintage collection

by Hirshi Sujanti

Art Deco Innovation: Exploring the Iconic Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Setting

The Mystery Setting by Van Cleef & Arpels stands out as a masterpiece of Art Deco ingenuity. As the world celebrates the centenary of Art Deco in 2025, we are taking the opportunity to spotlight one of the most technically ambitious innovations to emerge from this golden era of jewellery design

by Claire Roberts

Emerald Odyssey: Chopard Unveils its Insofu High Jewellery Collection

There's nothing quite like the thrill of a new collection unveiling. But what truly excites me isn't just the sparkle and glamour – it's when a brand takes a bold and unexpected approach. This is exactly what Chopard has done with its latest Insofu High Jewellery collection, which all started with the extraordinary 6,225-carat 'Insofu' rough emerald. Let's take a closer look at the creations that have emerged from this incredible mineral specimen

by Hirshi Sujanti

Watches and Wonders 2025: The Best Jewellery Watches 

From diamond-drenched serpents to enamelled blooms and secret talismans, these new jewellery watches unveiled in Geneva embody the artistry, emotion and extravagance of high jewellery watchmaking for women

by Rachael Taylor

Refined Character: The Ancient-Meets-Modern Allure of Dionysios Fine Jewels

The Dionysios signature is all about warm, soulful jewellery that’s characterful without being overtly historical or too starkly modern. Let’s take a closer look at some of the brand’s highlights…

by Katerina Perez

Blinded by the Light: The April Birthstone Through the Lens of Diamond Pavé

Let's consider pieces that showcase this method of craftsmanship in all its sparkling glory…

by Katerina Perez

Love Language: Introducing the Expressive Creations of Zome Jewellery

For designers like Meghna Biswas, the woman behind Zome Jewellery in the United Arab Emirates, the process of transforming coloured gemstones and precious metals into beautiful creations is an ever-evolving love language

by Katerina Perez

Diamond Garden: Creating Digital Delights with AI Artist Anastasia Rogozhina

Take a look and consider the incredible feats that artificial intelligence can achieve in empowering creativity and broadening our minds

by Katerina Perez

100 Years of Art Deco: Top 10 Pieces of Art Deco Jewellery Sold at Auction

From the legendary Van Cleef & Arpels Jarretière bracelet worn by Marlene Dietrich to a striking aigrette that was once part of the Al Thani collection, all the pieces below are infused with the fearless originality of the Jazz Age

by Claire Roberts

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Century of Splendour:Louis Vuitton Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds Chapter II

Creative Director Francesca Amfitheatrof offers her unique interpretation of a pivotal period in France’s history, marked by the French Revolution, the Napoleonic era, and the rise of industrialism

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.