Club
Rubies Reinvented: From royal gem to daily dose of colour
Historically, rubies have always been seen as the royal gemstone – a symbol of power and prominence adorning the Tsars of Russia, the Maharajahs of India, and the royal families of Europe. And while rare Burmese ‘pigeon’s blood’ rubies still hold this almost mystical significance in high jewellery, there’s a fresh wave of everyday designs that are placing rubies on the necks and fingers of those royal at heart. Here are a selection of designs to celebrate this most regal and auspicious of gems.
Once you start looking, it is amazing how ubiquitous the simple word ‘ruby’ becomes in poetry, history, myth, and legend. There’s just something about richly saturated shades of red that seems to inspire creatives and included in that group are jewellery designers, past and present. Rubies have for hundreds of years been the pinnacle of luxury, perhaps even more so than diamonds. The most vivid Burmese rubies are truly rare and covetable, with high jewellery brands now turning to new sources in Mozambique, for example, as their source of royal red gems.
Philippe Guilhem Vaya N°1 ring in bronze and gold, set with an oval-shaped ruby
If I had rubies, riches, and crowns, I’d buy the whole world and change things around, Bob Dylan.
Van Cleef & Arpels Folie des Prés Collection ruby and diamond earrings in rose gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Folie des Prés Collection ruby and diamond necklace in rose gold
More recently though, we are seeing a diversification of ruby jewels and finding this scarlet corundum in more wearable, everyday designs that don’t require an equally red carpet to feel at home. Perhaps it is the desire among all women (and men, of course) to feel like royalty in their own lives, even if it’s just for a moment. Take a look at the gallery of pieces I have selected below from across the spectrum of high jewels, designer jewels and pieces that could comfortably be worn every day. What unifies them is the intensity of the red hue, whether it’s a brighter red with hints of pink or a deep burgundy shade that pairs well with rose or yellow gold. I’m sure within this selection you will discover at least one piece that will help you live out your regal fantasies.
Harakh
Harakh
Ruby and diamond necklace
Chaumet
Chaumet
Soir de Fête ring in 18k white gold, set with a pear-shaped ruby of around 2.50 carats from Mozambique and brilliant cut-diamonds
Vanleles
Vanleles
Enchanted Garden earrings in 18k rose gold and titanium with diamonds and rubies
Ronald Abram
Ronald Abram
Burmese ruby and diamond bracelet
Buccellati
Buccellati
Cabochon ruby and diamond cocktail ring
Harry Winston
Harry Winston
Dancing Flames ring with a cabochon ruby and diamonds
Gubelin
Gubelin
Deep Sea Anemone earrings with diamonds and rubies
Bayco
Bayco
Ruby and diamond eternity ring
David Morris
David Morris
Cushion-cut ruby and pear-shaped diamond High Jewellery ring
Bugari
Bugari
Magnifica High Jewellery necklace with rubies and diamonds
Jacquie Aiche
Jacquie Aiche
Precious Crescent Moon necklace with diamonds and rubies in rose gold
Garrard
Garrard
Albemarle Diamond drop earrings in 18k white gold with detachable ruby drops
Lark & Berry
Lark & Berry
Flora earrings with diamonds and ruby drops
Cartier
Cartier
Phaan ring with an 8.20 carat ruby from the Sixième Sens par Cartier High Jewellery collection
Bia Tambelli
Bia Tambelli
Portal Collection Lotus ring in 18k rose, yellow and white gold and black rhodium, set with black diamond pavé, white diamond pavé and a round cut cabochon ruby
Chaumet
Chaumet
Torsade de Chaumet sautoir with diamonds and rubies in 18k white gold
Pragnell
Pragnell
Masterpiece cushion-cut Burmese ruby ring of 3.98 carats in platinum and 18k yellow gold
Bvlgari
Bvlgari
Magnifica High Jewellery secret watch with a 6.32 carat ruby cabochon
Misahara
Misahara
Pink Persuasion ring from the Petal Collection with a cushion-cut ruby in rose gold
Melissa Kaye
Melissa Kaye
Lola Triple ring in 18k rose gold with diamonds and rubies
Picchiotti
Picchiotti
L’Anfiteatro ring with an 8.05 carat oval ruby
Ruchi
Ruchi
Enchanted Evening Hyperion bracelet with rubies and diamonds
Stenzhorn
Stenzhorn
Una ruby ring in 18k white gold
Miseno
Miseno
Ruby and diamond earrings in 18k yellow gold
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels
Sous les Étoiles High Jewellery collection with rubies, sapphires and diamonds
Pomellato
Pomellato
NUVOLA ring in Fairmined rose gold with an oval-shaped Greenland ruby
Moussaieff
Moussaieff
Ruby and white diamond earrings
Robinson Pelham
Robinson Pelham
River Link bracelet set with pink sapphires and rubies in black rhodium and 18k rose gold
Chaumet
Chaumet
Torsade de Chaumet necklace with diamonds and rubies
Boghossian
Boghossian
Kissing High Jewellery ring with a pear-shaped ruby and diamonds
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
Related Articles
Watches and Wonders 2025: Eight of the Most Artful Dials
From lovers kissing on a bridge to precious animals painted in enamel or gems, this year’s watch launches included timepieces with extraordinary dials that blur the line between watchmaking and wearable art.
Birthday Wishes: Embracing the Power of Being Different
Today, I want to share my thoughts on embracing your inner self and channelling all that power into your biggest passions…
Flip the Script: Meet the Jewellers Creating Luxury Customised Watches
Jewellery designers are increasingly turning their artistic talents to the world of horology, customising luxury watches with unique embellishments that carry their personal style signatures. From reimagined Rolexes to gemstone-studded bezels, discover how jewellers are making their mark on the world of timepieces
Iconic Revival: Boucheron Reinvents the Serpent Bohème Jewellery
That nostalgic feeling of seeing past creations—sometimes forgotten, sometimes iconic—sparking a rush of inspiration to reimagine and breathe new life into what once was. That's exactly what Boucheron has achieved with its latest revival: the Serpent Bohème Vintage collection
Art Deco Innovation: Exploring the Iconic Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Setting
The Mystery Setting by Van Cleef & Arpels stands out as a masterpiece of Art Deco ingenuity. As the world celebrates the centenary of Art Deco in 2025, we are taking the opportunity to spotlight one of the most technically ambitious innovations to emerge from this golden era of jewellery design
Emerald Odyssey: Chopard Unveils its Insofu High Jewellery Collection
There's nothing quite like the thrill of a new collection unveiling. But what truly excites me isn't just the sparkle and glamour – it's when a brand takes a bold and unexpected approach. This is exactly what Chopard has done with its latest Insofu High Jewellery collection, which all started with the extraordinary 6,225-carat 'Insofu' rough emerald. Let's take a closer look at the creations that have emerged from this incredible mineral specimen
Watches and Wonders 2025: The Best Jewellery Watches
From diamond-drenched serpents to enamelled blooms and secret talismans, these new jewellery watches unveiled in Geneva embody the artistry, emotion and extravagance of high jewellery watchmaking for women
Refined Character: The Ancient-Meets-Modern Allure of Dionysios Fine Jewels
The Dionysios signature is all about warm, soulful jewellery that’s characterful without being overtly historical or too starkly modern. Let’s take a closer look at some of the brand’s highlights…
Blinded by the Light: The April Birthstone Through the Lens of Diamond Pavé
Let's consider pieces that showcase this method of craftsmanship in all its sparkling glory…
Love Language: Introducing the Expressive Creations of Zome Jewellery
For designers like Meghna Biswas, the woman behind Zome Jewellery in the United Arab Emirates, the process of transforming coloured gemstones and precious metals into beautiful creations is an ever-evolving love language
Diamond Garden: Creating Digital Delights with AI Artist Anastasia Rogozhina
Take a look and consider the incredible feats that artificial intelligence can achieve in empowering creativity and broadening our minds
100 Years of Art Deco: Top 10 Pieces of Art Deco Jewellery Sold at Auction
From the legendary Van Cleef & Arpels Jarretière bracelet worn by Marlene Dietrich to a striking aigrette that was once part of the Al Thani collection, all the pieces below are infused with the fearless originality of the Jazz Age
Latest Stories
Club
Club
Club
Add articles and images to your favourites. Just
Century of Splendour:Louis Vuitton Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds Chapter II
Creative Director Francesca Amfitheatrof offers her unique interpretation of a pivotal period in France’s history, marked by the French Revolution, the Napoleonic era, and the rise of industrialism
Jewels Katerina Perez Loves
Continue Reading
Club
Club
Club
Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book
Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color
Brand Focus: Louis Vuitton
Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox
Style Guide
Club
Club
Club
Club
Club
