The Show Goes On: Chanel unveils 123 New Jewels in Collection N°5
This year, the French fashion house is celebrating the 100th anniversary of Chanel N°5 and so, Patrice Legero, its jewellery director, has dedicated a new high jewellery collection, Collection N°5, to the perfume. This is the first jewellery collection in Chanel’s history dedicated to the fragrance.
Every component of the legendary Chanel N°5 – from the shape of the bottle to the floral notes at the ‘heart’ of the fragrance – are reflected in the collection’s 123 pieces. Patrice Legero decided to introduce the world to this new collection as if it were a perfume scent: starting with some bright and sparkling top notes before moving on to the sillage. At the beginning of 2021, the most spectacular piece of jewellery was presented: the necklace N°5 with its unique 55.55 carat D colour, flawless (Type IIa) gemstone, which you can read more about in this article.
The Chanel 55.55 necklace from the Collection N°5 High Jewellery offering
The Chanel 55.55 necklace is set with a custom-cut D colour, flawless, Type IIa diamond of exactly 55.55 carats
The shape of the Chanel 55.55 necklace from the Collection N°5 High Jewellery offering is inspired by a Chanel Collection N°5 perfume bottle
Every detail of the Chanel 55.55 necklace has been considered, including the clasp in the shape of a number 5
A few months later, the French maison released the rest of the collection: 122 new creations that embody the 5 components of Chanel N°5 in a monochrome palette (with the exception of about a dozen colourful pieces). Diamonds, rock crystal and pearls are the protagonists of the collection, with yellow sapphires, yellow beryls, rubies, spinels and imperial topaz playing supporting roles. In my opinion, the Chanel N°5 collection would seem lacking without them, simply because current trends demand the inclusion of colour in jewellery designs. Chanel’s high jewellery collections are usually divided into sets, each of which belongs to a particular ‘chapter’. Patrice Legero has made no exception here and has followed the same principle, dividing 123 pieces of jewellery into 5 – how fitting! – thematic lines: Stopper, Bottle, Number, Flowers and Sillage. Let’s take a look at them separately.
Chanel Crystal Stopper High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds and rock crystal, including one round cut diamond of 1.03 carats
Chanel Bubbly Stopper High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds and cultured pearls
Chanel Crystal Stopper High Jewellery bracelet from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds and rock crystal, including one round-cut diamond of 1.02 carats
Chanel Crystal Stopper High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds and rock crystal, including one round-cut diamonds of 1.02 carats
Chanel Bubbly Stopper High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds and cultured pearls
Chanel Bubbly Stopper High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds and cultured pearls, including one round-cut diamond of 1.04 carats
Chanel Bubbly Stopper High Jewellery watch from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds and cultured pearls
Chanel Crystal Stopper High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in yellow gold with diamonds, rock crystal, onyx and glass, including one emerald-cut diamond of 1.02 carats
Chanel Diamond Stopper High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds, cultured pearls, rock crystal and onyx, including one round-cut diamond of 1.50 carats
Chanel Diamond Stopper High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds and onyx, including one emerald-cut diamond of 5.21 carats
Chanel Ribbon Stopper High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds, rock crystal and onyx
Chanel Ribbon Stopper High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds, rock crystal and onyx
Chanel Ribbon Stopper High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds, rock crystal and onyx, including one round-cut diamond of 1.01 carats
The sharply cut corners of the Stopper necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings and watches echo not only the cork shape of the famous Chanel N°5, but also reference the outline of Place Vendôme and, of course, the classic emerald cut. The octagons, carved out of rock crystal or inlaid with diamonds, are complemented by cuts of onyx, pearls and yellow sapphires. Together they form graphic, elegant and voluminous pieces of jewellery. In pursuing these designs, Chanel’s jewellers have certainly not neglected carat weight: a magnificent 5.21 carat diamond adorns the Diamond Stopper ring.
Chanel N°5 Abstraction High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds and yellow diamonds, including one pear-cut yellow diamond of 4.10 carats and one pear-cut colourless diamond of 3.31 carats
Chanel N°5 Signature Bottle High Jewellery brooch from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and white gold with yellow sapphires and diamonds
Chanel N°5 Abstraction High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds and yellow diamonds, including two pear-cut yellow diamonds of nearly 4 carats and two pear-cut colourless diamonds with a total weight of 3.53 carats
Chanel N°5 Abstraction High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds and yellow diamonds, including one cushion-cut diamond of 5.55 carats
Chanel N°5 Cascade High Jewellery bracelet from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds
Chanel N°5 Cascade High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds
Chanel N°5 Cascade High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds
Chanel N°5 Cascade High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds
Chanel N°5 Signature Bottle High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds and rock crystal, including two pear-cut diamonds of 1.55 carats and 1.54 carats
Chanel N°5 Signature Bottle High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in white gold and platinum with diamonds, rock crystal and cultured pearls, including one asscher-cut diamond of 5.27 carats and one pear-cut diamond of 3.55 carats
Chanel N°5 Sparkling Silhouette High Jewellery bracelet from Collection N°5 in platinum and pink gold with diamonds, including one round-cut diamond of 3.03 carats
Chanel N°5 Sparkling Silhouette High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in platinum and pink gold with diamonds, including one pear-cut diamond of 5.19 carats and one round-cut diamond of 1.55 carats
Chanel N°5 Sparkling Silhouette High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in platinum and pink gold with diamonds, including one asscher-cut diamond of 5.08 carats
True extravagance awaits you in the Bottle line: the characteristic geometric silhouette of the perfume’s bottle is lined with colourless and yellow diamonds. In the tiered Abstraction N°5 necklace, which settles on the wearer’s chest like the most delicate scent, perfectly matched stones are woven into an exquisite gradient that runs from a 3.31 carat D colourless diamond of internally flawless clarity to a 4.10 carat fancy vivid yellow stone. And yet it was not the necklace itself that captivated me, rather it was the corresponding asymmetrical ‘flowing’ earrings with four pear-shaped diamonds weighing between 0.95 and 3.01 carats - modern, daring and very feminine! I must say that the allegory of the drops dripping from the bottle can be easily traced through each piece in this line.
Chanel N°5 perfume was first launched in 1921 and has become an icon for the brand
The dynamic, sensual ‘5’ in the Number set glistens with colourless diamonds, golden beryls in the N°5 Drop necklace, earrings and bracelet suite, and luscious rubies in the Ribonned N°5 set. The real star of this ‘chapter’ is the Eternal N°5 necklace, which can be transformed into a choker if desired. An ensemble of round, pear-shaped, oval diamonds here crown a 10 carat, D-colour, flawless (Type IIa) emerald cut diamond. Essentially the entire Eternal N°5 set is astonishing with its D-colour and flawless/internally flawless clarity diamonds. The ring includes a stone with these attributes weighing 8.03 carats; the earrings - 3.06 carats; the bracelet - 5.19 carats; and a brooch - 5.07 carats.
Chanel N°5 Drop High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in yellow gold with diamonds and yellow beryl, including one pear-cut yellow beryl of 2.52 carats
Chanel Eternal N°5 High Jewellery brooch from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds, including one round-cut diamond of 5.07 carats
Chanel N°5 Drop High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in yellow gold, diamonds and yellow beryl, including one pear-cut beryl of 2.65 carats
Chanel Graphic N°5 High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds, including one emerald-cut diamond of 8.03 carats and one round-cut diamond of 2.14 carats
Chanel N°5 Drop High Jewellery bracelet from Collection N°5 in yellow gold with diamonds and yellow beryl, including one pear-cut yellow beryl of 2.52 carats
Chanel Graphic N°5 High Jewellery watch from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds
Chanel Ribboned N°5 High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in yellow gold with diamonds, spinels, rock crystal and glass, including a 1.01 carat round-cut spinel
Chanel Graphic N°5 High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds, including an emerald-cut diamond of 1.51 carats
Chanel Ribboned N°5 High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in pink gold with rubies, including a cushion-cut ruby of 5.05 carats and two heart-cut rubies of 2.32 and 2.28 carats
Chanel Knotted N°5 High Jewellery brooch from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds
Did you know that the heart of Chanel’s renowned perfume comprises floral notes? These play a leading role in the Flowers line. Jasmine, which is manifested in both traditional and asymmetrical earrings, cuffs, rings, bracelets, necklaces and cocktail watches, is studded with diamonds. Spring rose petals on brooches, necklaces and rings are depicted with pink sapphires, while ylang-ylang is formed by a ring with a 1.37-carat yellow sapphire embedded in rock crystal.
Chanel Grasse Jasmine High Jewellery asymmetrical earrings from Collection N°5 in white and diamonds, including a 1.06 carat pear-cut diamond solitaire
Chanel May Rose High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in pink gold with diamonds, pink sapphires and cultured pearls, including one round-cut diamond of 2.04 carats
Chanel Grasse Jasmine High Jewellery brooch from Collection N°5 in white gold, yellow gold and diamonds
Chanel Ylang Ylang High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in yellow gold with diamonds, yellow sapphires, rock crystal and glass, including a round-cut sapphire of 1.37 carats
Chanel Grasse Jasmine High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in white gold with diamonds
Chanel Grasse Jasmine High Jewellery asymmetrical earrings from Collection N°5 in white and yellow gold with diamonds, including a 1.52 carat round-cut diamond and a 1.51 carat pear-cut diamonds
Chanel Grasse Jasmine High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds, including a pear-cut diamond of 1.52 carats
The Sillage range, meanwhile, features an explosion of colour ignited by gemstones of various shades of red, orange and yellow. This “chapter” includes not one but two stunning necklaces that seem to be competing for supremacy. One of them, Golden Burst, is decorated with about 350 carats of sunny amber imperial topaz and a 4.51 carat diamond (colour D, emerald cut). The second, Blushing Sillage, looks like a cascade of rubies, garnets, yellow sapphires, red and pink spinels, which either shimmer like perfume in a bottle or blend into the wearer’s skin like the famed scent.
Chanel Blushing Sillage High Jewellery bracelet from Collection N°5 in pink gold with diamonds, rubies, spinels, garnets and yellow sapphires, including one cushion-cut spinel of 4.39 carats
Chanel Diamond Sillage High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds, including one cushion-cut diamond of 10.11 carats and one pear-cut diamond of 3.04 carats
Chanel Blushing Sillage High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in pink gold with diamonds, rubies, spinels, garnets and yellow sapphires, including two cushion-cut spinels of 3.14 and 3.10 carats
Chanel Diamond Sillage High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds, including two pear-cut diamonds of 1.64 and 1.63 carats
Chanel Golden Burst High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds and topazes, including one emerald-cut diamond of 4.51 carats
Chanel Diamond Sillage High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in white gold and diamonds, including one cushion-cut diamond of 8.15 carats
Chanel Golden Burst High Jewellery ring from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds, onyx and an emerald-cut imperial topaz of 22.51 carats
Chanel Golden Sillage High Jewellery bracelet from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds, yellow sapphires and spessartite garnets
Chanel Golden Sillage High Jewellery necklace from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds, yellow sapphires and spessartite garnets
Chanel Golden Sillage High Jewellery earrings from Collection N°5 in yellow gold and platinum with diamonds, yellow sapphires and spessartite garnets
Bright and unique in its theme, geometry and experimentation, Collection N°5 has undoubtedly succeeded in securing itself a future that will be no less celebrated than the history of Chanel N°5 itself.
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
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